Saturday, April 23, 2011

Honeymoon- Day 5 (4/23/2011)

Today, I will spare you the details of our delicious breakfast.  We had a full day!  Before leaving Alcudia, we climbed the stairs up the 14th Century wall that surrounds the town.  It is pretty awe inspiring that something that old can still be standing.  We walked the wall as long as it let us.  There were turrets along the way, as well as holes that were narrow on one side and wide on the other- perhaps for shooting fire-lit arrows at intruders?  Nevertheless, it was cool.
After saying goodbye to Alcudia, we went on a windy drive through the mountains.  I would love to be able to expound on its beauty, but I can't.  Tony and I were both focused on the roads.  Mallorca is not big on turn-outs or shoulders on the road and it is big on tourists on bicycles.  And, Tony was big on not getting car sick amidst the turns.  The little glimpses we were able to see were breathtaking, though.   


The dome in the chapel
At the top of the hill was the payoff, the Santuari de Lluc.  This large compound is a spiritual center founded around a statue of Mary with the Baby Jesus (la Morena de Lluc). The story is that an Arab boy who had converted to Christianity found the statue in a cave and the sanctuary was built around it.  The interior of the chapel is awe inspiring.  In the center of the chapel is an impressive painted dome with windows.  I was struck by the ornateness of the chapel compared to the remoteness of the location.  The grounds were also lovely.  A short hike to the top of an adjacent hill produced an incredible view of the surrounding area.  That path also leads you to the stations of the cross.  (For non-Catholics, these are markings--generally medium-sized plaques inside churches- where Catholics can go to meditate while saying the rosary.)  The stations at the Santuari were gigantic stone structures, at least 15-20 feet tall with bronze inlaid depictions of the Passion story.  The surrounding natural beauty was also noteworthy.

Lunch at the Santuari was Arroz Brut, a Mallorcan rice soup with meat, beans rice and saffron.  We also (over-ordered) pa amb oli and left very full.  Our waiter asked us where we were from in the states, since he had lived there.  (We could hear the difference in his accent.)  He was from Argentina, but had learned English in his stays in Miami and Jacksonville.  He was definitely far from home working in a remote corner of a Mediterranean island.  

After Lluc, we braved more twists and turns, but found ourselves compelled to make an unexpected stop along the way.  Even the Mallorcan government must have known a shoulder was in order for Gorg Blau.  We both gasped as we exited the Gorg Blau tunnel.  This was the most glowing blue lake (gorge, I suppose) I have ever seen.  The lake stretched over several miles.  Even the bicycling tourists got off the road to take in this sight.  

Next on the list was the quaintest town yet- Fornalutx.  I know I have pontificated on the charm of each place we've visited, but this really takes the cake.  Disney couldn't recreate this if they tried.  The town was all stone steps and stone buildings with potted flowers about.  The mountains tower above and, as you drive in, you can look down on the enchanted little hamlet.  The opposite end of town has vistas of a sweeping valley of orange groves.  The whole town smells sweetly of orange blossoms.  There is absolutely nothing to do there except oooh and aaah at the sights and walk the incredible number of steps.  No pictures do it justice.
 




After Fornalutx, we took the short drive to Soller, our home for the next couple of days.  The plan was to check in, rest a little, then walk to the Placa for dinner.  We haven't yet figured out how to rest "a little" and, once again, we slept through dinner.  Thankfully, we had a big lunch.  The room is lovely, though, with a small balcony that overlooks a brook.  We're looking forward to the big Sunday brunch.  

Happy Easter everyone! 

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